[K-Traveler] Pine Trees Found in Namsan Mountain

“Like a sturdy armor on the pine tree atop Namsan…” This is a verse from the national anthem that every Korean can sing.

Mount Namsan is an incredibly familiar natural landmark to the people of Seoul. But I want to ask if anyone remembers seeing the pine tree there. As someone who was born and raised in Yongsan, Seoul, Namsan was a frequent destination for school picnics during my elementary school years. Having worked in Euljiro for over 30 years, I thought I knew everything there was to know about Namsan.

To me, Namsan was associated with vibrant cherry blossoms in spring and melancholic autumn foliage. I only thought of the beautiful Namsan Walking Trail, Namsan Tower, and the cable car.

I embarked on a spring outing to find the “pine tree on top of Namsan.”

Upon climbing the steep road, I reached Namsan Park, where peaceful pigeons greeted me. The statue of General Kim Yu-sin, a key figure in the unification of the Three Kingdoms, was a sight that I rarely encountered, reminiscent of a scene one might encounter during a European city trip, both unfamiliar and magnificent.

As I ascended along the fortress walls and stone steps, I couldn't help but turn back, wanting to see the landscape unfolding below. On that clear day, with the fine dust cleared away, it felt like I could see the entirety of Seoul, a megacity with a population of tens of millions, including Yeouido and Mount Bukhansan.

As I climbed further, I reached the spacious Baekbeom Square, with its beautiful landscaping. On one side of the square stood the traditional Hanok building called Hohyeondang, meaning “a place loved by wise people.”

Here, they provide an opportunity for pre-booked general citizens and foreigners to learn about Korean etiquette and tea culture.

Passing by the Ahn Jung-geun Memorial Hall and climbing a steep path, I finally arrived at Namsan's iconic landmark, Namsan Tower.

On the way up, I encountered many foreigners. Could it be that the situation with COVID-19 is improving and returning to normal? I was curious how these foreigners knew about and climbed this path. When I asked a few of them, they said that the waiting time for the cable car was too long, so they decided to walk instead.

Enjoying the scenery, learning about history, and getting exercise as a bonus -- what more could one ask for? I didn't forget to tell those foreigners who actively answered my questions that if they found the current view beautiful, they should remember that Seoul's sunset, night view, and Namsan Tower shining in red and blue lights alternately would be even more breathtaking at night.

Now, it is time to truly search for the pine tree that our nation holds most dear and sacred.

The pine tree is the most widely planted species in the mountains of Korea. It has been included in the symbolic Ten Longevity Symbols, representing immortality, and as seen in paintings such as Kim Hongdo's “Seoninsonghachwisaengdo,” Kim Jung-hee's “Sehando,' and Jung Sun's “Nosongyeongjido,” it has been a recurring motif for scholars and artists.

The pine tree has also found its place in folk paintings, revealing the emotions of ordinary people through the works of nameless artists.

With the expectation of seeing a scene similar to Gyeonggang Pine Forest in Uljin, Gyeongbuk, I sought out Namsan Pine Forest. However, the trees appeared somewhat stunted, as if they hadn't been around for a long time.

Why is that? It is because during the late Joseon Dynasty, indiscriminate logging took place, and no reforestation efforts were made. During the Japanese colonial era, a tree called "Akashi," which we now know as Acacia, was extensively planted. As a result, native pine trees almost disappeared from Mount Namsan.

The mountain, which experienced further devastation during the Korean War, has been restored to its present state through the "Rediscover Namsan" project initiated in 1990. Since 2021, Namsan Pine Forest has been designated as a national forest cultural asset and is being well-preserved. It stands tall for decades, even centuries.

Surprisingly, the paths lined with pine trees along the trails around Namsan have fewer footsteps than expected. The quieter it gets, the lonelier the pine trees appear, yet they also exude strength and resilience.

As I descend, leaving the pine trees behind, my heart becomes somewhat nostalgic, and I find myself turning back to look at the pine trees again. It makes me realize that the complex history of the Korean Peninsula has not only influenced people but also nature.

The walking path around Namsan, traversed by those visiting Namsan Tower, is closed to general vehicles and is only accessible on foot. Amidst the dense trees, glimpses of the Seoul cityscape can be seen, which, I believe, can rival the Victoria Peak Walkway in Hong Kong, an internationally renowned tourist city.

As we all know, the second verse of our national anthem continues as follows: "The unchanging spirit of the wind and frost is our eternal foundation."

Furthermore, the phrase "In the coldest days of winter, we can finally see that pine and cypress trees do not wither," written in "Sehando," was borrowed from the Analects. Kim Jeong-hee may have included this quote to perceive the vitality of pine trees ingrained within our nation.

Pine trees are not only friends and teachers who embody the spirit of our nation, but they are also an integral part of our lives.

(This article is translated from Korean to English to Yunhee Cho) 

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