Strolling through Changdeokgung Palace, Immersed in the Scent of Joseon

▲ A photo of Changdeokgung Palace in Seoul, taken in April 29, 2024, (Yonhap)

SEOUL, May 6 (Yonhap) -- "Usually, the palace gates open at 9 a.m. Those gathered here are the first guests to awaken Changdeokgung Palace. Welcome."

On the morning of the 29th last month, at 8 a.m. in front of Geumcheon Bridge of Changdeokgung Palace.

Instead of the main gate Donhwamun, where visitors usually pass through, author Lee Si-woo spoke to those who passed through Geumho Gate. As he said, there were only about 40 "guests" inside Changdeokgung Palace.

The guests who broke through the fierce "palace marketing" were participants of the inaugural event "Awakening the Palace" held as part of this year's K-Royal Culture Festival.

The faces of those who woke up Changdeokgung Palace with their families, lovers, and friends were filled with anticipation and excitement. Even a mother, dressed in a hanbok blouse, with her daughter who had just turned two, caught the eye.

▲ A photo of Changdeokgung Palace in Seoul, taken in April 29, 2024, (Yonhap)

As we entered Injeongjeon Hall, the core building of Changdeokgung Palace, through Geumho Gate, the noise of the city seemed to disappear. Lee Si-woo gestured towards the courtyard with the Punggyeseok (a stone with the rank carved on it placed in front of Injeongjeon) and explained, "What you see now is how the kings of the Joseon Dynasty would have looked."

Lee guided us through various places in Changdeokgung Palace such as Seonjeongjeon Hall and Huijeongdang Hall, introducing the history and significance of the buildings. At Nakseonjae, he emphasized parts not to be missed, such as the different shapes of door lattices and the staircase-like flower beds called "natural calendars." The highlight of the morning walk was the serene rear garden. The garden, with its lush forests, ponds, and various pavilions, is considered particularly beautiful within Changdeokgung Palace.

"When watching a drama, sometimes the first episode is exciting, but it loses its charm as it progresses. However, the morning walk in Changdeokgung Palace remains beautiful and moving until the end. It's because of the rear garden." (Laughs)

▲ A photo of Changdeokgung Palace in Seoul, taken in April 29, 2024, (Yonhap)

As we explored places like Buyongjeong Pavilion, where King Jeongjo (reigned 1776-1800) enjoyed fishing, and Bullo Gate, built to wish for the king's longevity, or Jondeokjeong Pavilion with its roof and pillars overlapping, two hours had passed in the blink of an eye. When we arrived at Donhwamun Gate following the path of the rear garden, it was bustling with visitors.

Jung Seok-jin said, "It was an opportunity to encounter a palace untouched by anyone else, so I asked my daughter to make a reservation. It was a time of mixed emotions and learning, as if walking through the past."

▲ A photo of Changdeokgung Palace in Seoul, taken in April 29, 2024, (Yonhap)

The craft exhibition presented at the Royal Culture Festival, held for nine days, was also an opportunity to experience Changdeokgung Palace in a unique way. The exhibition "Symbiosis: Overlapping Time and Space," planned by director Gu Byeong-joon, featured works created by nine national intangible cultural heritage inheritors and traditional craft artists at Injeongjeon Hall, Seonjeongjeon Hall, and Sungjeongjeon Hall. It was the first time that Injeongjeon Hall, designated as a national treasure, was used as an exhibition space.

When we visited Injeongjeon on the 27th of last month, eight craft items using traditional lighting called Jadeng were lined up on both sides of the throne where the king sat. Beyond the lights that changed colors moment by moment, the sound of a drum echoed.

On the floor, panels made of a material similar to mirrors were laid, giving the impression that the pillars and ceiling inside the building were visible. Visitors felt the faint scent and took photos of the space where the king had stayed in the past.

Director Gu said, "We utilized visual, auditory, and olfactory senses to fully convey the experience that can only be felt in Changdeokgung Palace. You will be able to feel the past's time and space in a different way."

Officials from the Royal Culture Festival explained the meaning and purpose of the works to visitors, who often expressed amazement and curiosity, saying, "Was this here before?" or "It's fascinating."

Jeong Yoon-kyung, who was touring Injeongjeon Hall with her friend, said, "Seeing a national treasure building used as an exhibition background gives a different feeling from before. I want to come again." 

The Cultural Heritage Administration and the Korea Cultural Heritage Foundation plan to present various programs introducing Changdeokgung Palace during the festival. "Awakening the Palace" will be held regularly in spring and autumn. Since the first festival in 2015 was always held around Gyeongbokgung Palace, it is reported that there are plans to consider using Changdeokgung Palace in the future.

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